Taste the thunder, with Salman Khan. Only Vimal, with Sir Vivian Richards. Garden Vareli, with Madhu Sapre and Aishwarya Rai. Nobody makes dreams like Shantanu Sheorey, as Raj Lalwani retraces.
Shantanu Sheorey was the undisputed bohemian of fashion photography in India. A pioneer of many hues, he set the rules, redefined them, bent them and almost always, broke them. Having started his career in the early eighties, at a time when the genre was at its relative infancy in India, his pushing of the medium was constant, incessant, in a journey that is best defined by the fact that you could never really define it. Shantanu has always been a man in a hurry. His maverick ideas are backed by an intricate control over craft, a lot of which goes back to his early years of experimentation in the darkroom, while he was studying offset printing.
Blur, multiple exposures, the use of mixed lighting, and almost every technique that is a departure from the norm, has made its way into his commercial work. His defining style was that he didn’t have one style. “Beautiful images, the quality of which is rarely seen today, have been shot using tungsten lights decades ago,” he says, while embracing the latest of technology, and yet, seeking the timelessness of old.
“I Don’t Like Normal…”
In recent years, he has moved away from the industry, having settled into the role of an educationist. But the spark that always defined a Shantanu Sheorey campaign continues to be mirrored in the gleam that lights up his eye every time he discovers something new. “I discovered the work of Lillian Bassman only four years ago, and there was such a sense of déjà vu that I felt,” says Shantanu, of the iconic art director and photographer whose legacy was only recently rediscovered.
Bassman’s images were characterised by a whimsical elegance that was created by the use of a wide range of techniques, from bleaching, extreme use of contrast, grain, and handpainting in the darkroom. “I was reminded of my early efforts, of how I’d always try to make my work different. I don’t like normal,” he says.
Everyone is a potential storyteller. Just look at things around you, every bit, detail, texture, ray that you observe is a tiny part of your overall vision.
It’s remarkable how relentlessly he pursued evolution, how constantly he looked for change. From his very first fashion assignment, where he smeared Vaseline on the filter to create a David Hamilton-inspired dreamy look, to eventually moving away from photography itself, seeking to explore the moving image. The ease with which he shifted mediums, though, is not surprising. Even his still photos have always had a sense of fluidity, a grace that is best seen in his now iconic series of Garden Vareli campaigns. “I was tired of sharp pictures, and convinced the client that I will shoot an entire campaign on an Agfa Click-III, a cheap snapshot camera that would often result in fuzzy, but moody images.”
He was eventually urged to use a regular camera, but he arrived at the look nonetheless. A combination of tungsten lamps, flash and slow shutterspeed, with a fleximirror, which when bent, would distort light in such a way that it becomes difficult to figure out where the source actually lies. This was supermodel Madhu Sapre’s first ever assignment, just a few days after she had walked into his studio in a tracksuit. She was a national-level shotput champion.
I am fascinated by reflective surfaces. They do not tell you a story, but tease you into it.
He sensed a model… much like he discovered a wide range of faces that now constitute some of the stalwarts of the industry. Shantanu Sheorey is not too fond of the tag of a fashion photographer for he has always explored several genres, but his eye, both for imagery and for talent, went a long way in building the fashion industry in the country.
Shantanu Sheorey has been at the forefront of creating and executing some of the most memorable advertising and marketing campaigns for over three decades, with several print campaigns & over 900 ad films to his credit. An alumnus of the J J School of Art and the Maine workshops, he recently founded The One School Goa.
This story was featured as a part of Fashion Stories Vol. 2
This article originally appeared in the July 2016 issue of Better Photography.Tags: Raj Lalwani, better photography, Commercial Photography, photography, fashion, shantanu sheorey, Anniversary Issue Vol 2, Fashion Stories, Main Story, modelling