On the Path to Moksha

Warkaris reach the top of the Diveghat pass near Pune. The pilgrimage takes place during the monsoons in Maharashtra. If the monsoons are good, the turnout for the pilgrimage is higher than otherwise. Photograph/Shirish Shete

The story was originally published in October 2009.

“It took me six years to create Wari: Path to the Divine and I hope the book encourages readers to undertake and experience Wari.”—Shirish Shete

Shirish Shete walks with the Warkaris—the devotees of Lord Vitthal—to capture their activities while on their holy pilgrimage to Pandharpur.

The Warkaris are a living example of boundless devotion towards their Lord. They follow a tradition called Wari, which is the holy path towards moksha or liberation from the cycle of rebirth. This tradition started more than 700 years ago as a bhakti (devotional) movement in Maharashtra, led by popular saints of that time like Dnyaneshwar, Tukaram, Eknath and Namdeo.
Today, the Warkaris still follow this tradition religiously. Lakhs of these devotees come together twice a year to take the three-week long pilgrimage from Dehu and Alandi to Pandharpur, Maharashtra. They sing kirtans and other traditional songs, as they take the long, arduous route to meet their Lord Pandurang (Vitthal).
The idea of this photo series came to me by chance. I was photographing tamasha dancers in Alandi, Maharashtra, when I encountered the Warkaris. Their energy and dedication astounded me, which is why I decided to document them. Compiling these photographs into a coffee-table book is my way of paying tribute them. It took me six years to create Wari: Path to the Divine and I hope the book encourages readers to experience Wari.

Lakhs of Warkaris converge at Pandharpur for the Ashadi Ekadashi celebrations. This was a very important photograph, as it marks the completion of the annual pilgrimage. Photograph/Shirish Shete

 Tips to Remember While Documenting a Pilgrimage
• Research thoroughly before you set out on your trip. If necessary, take the help of experts who can guide you about the geography, history and photo opportunities to look out for during the event.
• You need to adore these people, understand them, see their passion, interact and bond with them, in order to portray the true flavours and ambience of the pilgrimage in your pictures.
• Ensure that your gear is in working condition and you have all what you would need in your camera bag.

Two days before the final Ashadi Ekadashi celebrations, Warkaris perform the last ringan (an important spiritual Wari discipline) in a large open space called Bajiraochi Vihir. They play various games, chant and sing kirtans, while they wait for the Dnyaneshwar and Tukaram palkhis (palanquins) to arrive. Photograph/Shirish Shete

About Shirish Shete

Shirish Shete has worked with many of India’s leading dailies. Currently, he is a chief photographer with The Press Trust of India. The following photographs have been taken from his recently published book Wari: Path to the Divine.